Ecuador: 1/12/2018 - 1/27/2018

Sunday, January 14, 2018 - Sonam gets to know the family

It rained overnight, but had cleared up by the time we woke up. Rosa, Craig, Shina, and Yupanqui shucked some corn, and then we fed the corn husks to the family's three cuy (guinea pigs). Sonam was not familiar with guinea pigs. In the USA they are pets, but here in Ecuador and other Andean countries, they are a delicacy eaten on special occasions. The cuy live in a little pen in the outdoor kitchen, where the fire can keep them warm. Rosa mentioned that one of the cuy was pregnant.

Rosa used the corn to make corn pancakes for breakfast, along with guayaba juice, coffee/tea, and fresh bread.

After breakfast, we showed Sonam around the property and introduced him to Juanita the piglet and Cachupin the dog. We walked around the back of the house to the cornfield and looked down the ravine where there are many eucalyptus trees. The overcast weather meant that we didn't have a goodview of all of the mountains and volcanoes in the distance (Cotacachi, Cayambe, Imbabura, Fuya Fuya, etc.)

We took Sonam into one of the outbuildings next to the cornfield where there was a small Catholic shrine. While we were looking around, someone small scooted past me. I thought it was one of the kids, but it was actually Antonio's mother Abuelita. She only speaks very basic Spanish, being most comfortable with her native Kichwa. We introduced her to Sonam and she gave us all her beautiful wide smile. I snapped a photo, and somehow the stars aligned to make it the best portrait I have ever gotten of her.

Sonam showed the kids our videos from Bhutan on his phone. They were excited to see Sonam's home and family, with Achi Mama and Achi Taita there as well. (Achi Mama and Achi Taita mean Godmother and Godfather, respectively, in Kichwa. Achi Wawa means Godchild).

Sonam had a great time playing with the kids. He knows many songs, dances, and games, and isn't afraid to be silly. He taught them an Engish language song with its accompanying gestures:

Tingalayo! Come little donkey, come.
Tingalayo! Come little donkey, come.

My donkey dance, my donkey jump,
My donkey eat with a fork and knife!

The kids loved it and were soon referencing it every time we sat down to eat with a "fork and knife."

Sisa and Yupanqui had math homework to complete. Sisa was practicing division and Yupanqui was learning multiplication. They were using corn kernels as counting aids. My background as an early childhood educator comes out in situations like this, and I really enjoy helping them to learn.

For lunch, we had quinoa soup (with some picante pepper sauce which made it quite Bhutanese-tasting) as well as pasta, steak, rice, and salad.

The kids ran into their bedroom and Sisa was digging through a bureau looking for something. She eventually found it: the photo book that we had given them the last time we were here. This was a perfect segue, as we had made a similar one for Sonam for our recent Bhutan trip. Once the kids had read him their book and showed him the photos, we surprised him with his book. He read through it and we showed the kids all of the photos of Bhutan.

In the afternoon, it started to rain again. We all had a great time constructing and decorating a gingerbread train with icing and candy. The kids cooperated quite well and it entertained them for two hours. At first they felt quite constrained by the instructions, and were trying to place every piece of candy just as it appeared on the box. But Sonam's easygoing way encouraged them to freestyle it and by the end we had a very creative (and delicious) train. Rosa even gave a piece to Abuelita to try.

When I had bought the kit on clearance after Christmas, I remember thinking that it would surely result in a huge sticky (but fun) mess. I was amazed that the activity was as controlled and successful as it was. The kids followed directions and exhibited teamwork skills. I was very impressed.

Then Craig and Sonam surprised me with a gift. When we were in Bhutan in October, we bought traditional clothes to wear to the festival. Sonam's sister-in-law Tshering Wangmo was kind enough to lend me some of her beautiful jewelry.

Craig wanted to surprise me with some jewelry of my own that would match my kira. Unbeknownst to me, he had been in contact with Sonam to commission two beautiful necklaces for me. What a surprise; these two guys did a great job of keeping the whole thing a secret. I was overwhelmed. Thanks to the entire family in Bhutan for helping to make it a reality!

Sonam distributed other gifts today as well, giving Rosa and the girls wallets/purses, and T-shirts for Antonio and Yupanqui.

He then came to our casita and presented us with gifts from him and his family. He gave us a lovely photo of the Tiger's Nest to remind us of our spiritual trek to the cliffside monastery. He also gave us a metal statue containing coiled paper on which are written Buddhist prayers as an addition to our home altar. And he gave us each a T-shirt. He also gave us cordyceps tea for our parents. So thoughtful!

Sonam's brother Dhendup, his wife Tshering Wangmo, and son "Bue" Jamtsho sent some colorful bamboo baskets and a tiny snowglobe of the Tiger's Nest. Sonam's sister/cousin Lhaki and family sent us each a woven wallet. Sister/cousin Kinley Zangmo and her daughter Bumchu sent a lovely silk scarf (Sonam helped her to pick out the vibrantly beautiful orange color) for me and a silk tie for Craig. Cousins Chimi Oomoo and Kezang Choden sent us Bhutan tie clips, and their mother Phub Pem was instrumental in providing the jewelry. Our friend Tsring Om sent us a woven laptop sleeve and wallet. Their generosity overwhelmed and humbled us.

And last but not least were two full sized authentic durdag (skeleton) masks from Sonam's Apa (father). The skeleton masks we had seen at the Shelmakha tsechu had captured my imagination. They remind me of Latin American Day of the Dead imagery. We had attempted to find some in Paro, but none of the tourist shops carried them.

Enter Apa, who was determined to find one. He went to an artisan friend and commissioned 2 skeleton masks. Although we had all been envisioning small decorative ones, it turns out that this particular mask is nearly impossible to hand carve on a small scale because of the intricacies and depth of the features such as cheekbones, recessed eyes, and chin. It would take the artisan around a month to make them, but Apa didn't have that much time before Sonam had to leave for Bangkok. The artisan happened to have two masks onhand which had been commissioned by the Royal Performing Arts Academy. They were not on a deadline, so he sold those masks to Apa and would make two additional masks for them.

In order to try to maximize safety for the large masks (which have vulnerable protruding ears and crowds), Sonam packed one in his checked luggage, and carried the second one in his backpack. Both made it from Bhutan to Bangkok to Amsterdam to Ecuador without incurring any damage. They were absolutely beautiful and we were totally taken aback.

Craig and I stayed in our room for a while. I organized the gifts along with our other belongings, filling up all of the newfound storage in the drawers of our bed. Meanwhile, the kids took Sonam for a walk up by the school to the small tienda (neighborhood store). We were very happy that they were comfortable enough to ask him to go with them and that they had shared that time together.

We all met back in the kitchen at dinner time, and enjoyed soup, chicken, rice, broccoli, and potatoes.

It was Sunday night and the kids have to go to school tomorrow, so we all retired to our rooms rather early.