Ecuador 1/11/2019 - 2/2/2019

Monday, January 21, 2019 - Snorkeling at Kicker Rock (Leon Dormido), Swimming at Puerto Grande beach

Sisa slept well and so did I (with the exception of when she reached out her arm in her sleep and poked me right in the eye), but morning came very quickly after our late night eclipse watching last night.

As we got dressed and packed day packs for our snorkeling excursion, I went outside to the self-serve drink station and got coffee for Craig and myself.

When we were ready for the day, we went out to the dining terrace where we met Mukul for breakfast. There was a small buffet with eggs made to order. The buffet food was covered in plastic wrap, which was surprisingly effective in preventing the myriad birds who landed on it from being able to eat it. However, once the food got to the tables it was a different story. A Darwin's finch was persistent at trying to eat from our table, and eventually perched on Mukul's spoon and reached his beak down into the bowl to eat a crumb of granola.

Fabo arrived and we walked with him over to the pier and observed some blue footed boobies, marine iguanas, pelicans, and sea lions hanging out on the rocks. The blue-footed boobies, with their unique blue beaks and feet, are symbolic of the Galapagos, though in actuality they are found along the Pacific coast as far north as California.

We met Ernesto, our naturalist guide, and boarded our boat. There were some scuba divers on the excursion, and the rest of us would be snorkeling. We headed toward Kicker Rock (Leon Dormido). At our first stop, scuba divers took a practice dive. Mukul did not want to go in the water, but had been eagerly awaiting an opportunity to photograph male frigatebirds with their bright red chest pouches inflated as they tried to attract mates. The crew invited him up to the wheelhouse on the top deck to get a better vantagepoint for taking photos. We enjoyed watching the frigatebirds' mating display on the hillside of an island. They were out of range for my camera, but we were confident that Mukul would be able to capture them, which he did.

We noticed that among the other food on the boat, there was a bunch of bananas. At home, bananas on a boat are viewed as bad luck...we jokingly said that we hoped this wasn't a portent of bad things to come.

After the divers came back aboard, we continued to Kicker Rock. Fabo was great with Sisa. This would be her first time snorkeling, and she is not a competent swimmer. He taught her how to use the mask and snorkel and how to breathe properly. Then they got her all geared up in wetsuit, flotation device, mask, and snorkel.

She did a great job jumping into the water. At that point, Fabo took over. He got her comfortable inside a life ring, and pulled her around while she submerged her face in the water. She was completely comfortable and confident. Even when she occasionally swallowed some water, she handled it well, didn't panic, and went right back to snorkeling.

Kicker Rock was an awesome sight, two sheer rock faces made of compacted ash and rising 460 feet straight up out of the ocean. It is named for its resemblance to other objects (Kicker Rock in English because it looks like a boot, and Leon Dormido in Spanish because it looks like a sleeping lion).

The Humboldt and Cromwell currents bring cold water rich in minerals and nutrients from the south and west. It fuels the growth of plankton which attracts fish which in turn attract sea birds. The cool waters also sustain penguins, which otherwise would not be found as far north as the equator, and sea lions. The Panama current provides warm pockets which sustain the growth of coral, which provides food for fish adapted for warmer water.

Ernesto suggested that we stay close to the walls of the rock, as this area is teeming with life. The sheer rock walls extended down past our visibility, as urchins, coral, and other creatures clung to them. The sun was out at times, and the light was just gorgeous on the various sea life.

We weren't sure how comfortable Sisa would be, but we needn't have worried. As I swam by her, Fabo told me that she had just spotted a green sea turtle. Even when Ernesto drew our attention to three types of sharks (white tipped reef, Galapagos, and hammerhead) swimming below us, she only paused for a moment. We then all convinced her that there was so much food for them in the ocean, that they wouldn't even take any interest in us. She agreed with this and happily went on her way observing all of the sea life around her.

I had never fully submerged my Olympus Tough camera in the sea before, and I was a bit nervous about the prospect. Although it is made for this exact situation, in the past I had only used it in rain. Actually putting it under the water and putting the battery and memory card at the mercy of the O-ring seal was stressful. But I couldn't resist the opportunity. I am so glad that I did it as I was able to capture images of the sea life for Sisa.

As we swam close to the rock wall, when we popped our heads above water we could see sea lions lounging on the rocks in the sun above us.

We saw two different green sea turtles, one of which had two barnicles stuck to its back. Green sea turtles can swim the 800 miles to continental South America, and can grow to weigh over 400 pounds. They eat so much green algae that their body fat even turns green, which is how they get their name.

Craig was finding himself expending a lot of energy just trying to manage his flotation device. They had given us bright yellow inflatable vests to wear, to help with buoyancy as well as to help with visibility to boats. Craig's did not work well for him; it kept riding up on his neck trying to choke him. It became quite a distraction, and he had to keep adjusting it.

At one point he wondered if he should return to the boat because he was becoming fatigued. But the visibility was great and he decided to enjoy a few more minutes of watching sea life. As luck would have it, several minutes later, Ernesto announced that it was time to return to the boat.

We swam back to the boat and they gave us a cup of hot chocolate to warm us. Craig was quite tired after the snorkeling; he had expended more energy than he had thought. One of his arms was numb. We had a chance to get back into the water, but Craig, Sisa, and I opted to stay on the boat and enjoy the tranquility and rest. Sisa was chilly and changed back into her clothes. We had the boat to ourselves, and it was a gorgeous day.

Once the divers and snorkelers returned to the boat, we enjoyed lunch: pesto pasta, tuna, vegetables, and rice. A sea lion even boarded the back of the boat!

Craig was absolutely exhausted, and didn't get a second wind following lunch. We decided that he should just rest and sit out the afternoon activity: a visit to Puerto Grande. Puerto Grande was a beautiful beach, but we could see from the boat that there was no shade. Craig would be exposed to the heat of the mid-day sun, which would not be good for him. We didn't want him to overdo it today and be unable to participate in future activities. So he stayed on the boat in the shade as we were shuttled to the beach via Zodiac. He laid down and rested on the bench while the crew cleaned the boat.

The Zodiac ferried us through gorgeous turquoise water to the white sand beach of Puerto Grande and we explored the mangrove lagoons. We saw ghost crabs scurrying into their holes in the sand. Ernesto commented that they have eyes like Mr. Crabs on Spongebob. He said that when he was studying biology at university they put silicon down ghost crab holes to study the structure. It turns out that they spiral into the ground. He directed our attention to ghost crab "pseudo pellets." These resemble balls of dung, but are actually just balls of discarded sand which have been filtered through their mandibles as they eat.

Ernesto taught us how red mangroves propagate; some of their little seed pods were sticking up perpendicularly to the sand, taking root. Mangrove is a Huaorani word which means "twisted". He had us rub our fingers along mangrove leaves and taste them. They desalinate the water, and we could taste the salt from their surface. In addition to desalinating, they also help to reduce shore erosion.

Fabo led up down the beach to a place where we got a very good view of Kicker Rock. The surf was quite high here. The sun was quite strong, and it was hot. Sisa asked me if we could go swimming. I told her that the surf was much too dangerous here, but that we could swim where we had come ashore at the Zodiac.

Then we had some free time on the beach. We went back to where it was calmer. Sisa and I swam in the ocean and then we sat down in the sand and let the waves roll over us. Sisa's giggles were contagious...she enjoyed it so much! Being at the beach with a 10 year old as the waves push you into one another in a heap really brings you back to your youth. Especially since this is her first time ever experiencing this. As Craig rested on the boat, he could hear our giggles carrying over the water. I was happy that Mukul captured us on film, since I didn't have my camera with me in the water.

Horseflies started biting us a bit, so we got further into the water to protect ourselves.

By the time we got back to the boat, Craig had had a nice nap and was feeling much better, to my relief. It was a shame that he missed the beach, but I am proud of him for realizing his limitations and doing what was best for his health at the time. He also has no regrets, realizing that taking some time to rest now would better position him for enjoying the rest of the trip.

Sisa slept most of the way back to Puerto Baquierizo Moreno on the boat. When we got back to the hotel, we took a quick swim in the pool before getting dressed for dinner.

For our last night in San Cristobal, Fabo took us to a fisherman's home for a fresh seafood dinner. We took a short taxi ride to a neighborhood where Godofredo and his wife Jacqueline live in a commune of sorts with other fishing families.

The house closest to the street reminded us very much of our compadres’ house in Guatemala: very simple and utilitarian in its design. We wondered if it had also been built by Habitat for Humanity. A large fishing net sat in a heap in the yard, belying the occupation of the community.

We walked past this house to the houses behind it and found a lovely dining table set up in a courtyard. A whimsical ocean-themed garden occupied the far end of the yard. Bouys hung from the corrugated metal roof which covered the courtyard. One of them proclaimed “Bienvenidos” (welcome) in glittery gold lettering. Other items were suspended from the ceiling as well; life jackets, seashells, a drawing of a shark. And on the ground there was a still life of coral, whale vertebrae, and a scallop-shaped bone on which was written “Welcome to San Cristobal” in red and gold glitter. To the left there were two whale rib bones propped up to form an archway.

The exterior wall of the kitchen was painted with a sea mural which showed marine life above and below the surface of the water in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. A serving window allowed Godofredo and Jacqueline to pass food through when it was ready to be served.

Overhead, we noticed plastic baggies of water hanging from the ceiling. We knew from experiences in Belize that this is a deterrent for flies.

Jacqueline prepared blancillo (ocean whitefish) ceviche at our table. She marinates the fish in lime, salt, and tomato for two hours. Then at the table she combines it with white onion, sweet green pepper, and cilantro and serves it with a side of fresh avocado. It was garnished with popcorn. It was delicious.

That was followed by a main course of yellowfin tuna, rice, and patacones (mashed plantain slices). Sisa opted for chicken instead of tuna. And for dessert, a delicious passionfruit mousse which was as light as a souffle. It was a lovely evening, and it was fantastic to get the sea-to-table experience from a local fishing family whose roots in the Galapagos go back three generations. It was the intersection of fishing, art, cooking, and hospitality. Thank you so much Fabo, Godofredo, and Jacqueline for this unique experience!

As we waited for our taxi, we admired colorful school murals painted by students. They depicted Galapagos wildlife in varying styles, including cubism.

When we got back to town, we did did some souvenir shopping at a shop owned by Otavaleños. We knew that Rosa would appreciate us patronizing Kichwa-owned businesses. As we browsed in one particularly hot and stuffy shop, we heard chanting in the street. We stepped outside (both for some fresh air and to take a look) and saw people marching to protest violence against women.

Town was quite busy tonight. In addition to the protest, there were a group of people practicing dancing by the pier. This reminded us of the public exercise and dance groups we had seen in China. We had never seen this in Ecuador before. Perhaps this, like the public exercise equipment which has been appearing on sidewalks and in parks in the highlands, is a Chinese cultural export. China and Ecuador have a very tight economic relationship these days, with citizens from each country not even needing a visa to visit the other.

We walked along the strip, watching the sea lions sleeping on the beach. Sisa played on the slide and swings at the playground.

Then we headed back to the hotel for a much-deserved sleep.

Kicker Rock (Leon Dormido)

Puerto Grande beach