Morocco 2/16/2024 - 3/2/2024 |
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Sunday 2/18/2024 - Casablanca: Hassan II Mosque, Mahkamat al-Pasha, Habbous, Art Deco ArchitectureWe slept really well, waking up just before our 6:30 a.m. alarm. We took showers and headed downstairs to breakfast. This hotel had a buffet breakfast. As usual, the first time at a buffet like this can be overwhelming, and we needed to get our bearings before loading up our plates. First things first: we needed coffee. They had rather fancy coffee machines, but I figured out how to make us simple cafe Americano. We also had delicious fresh orange juice. We filled our plates with scrambled eggs, various omelets cut into cubes, chicken sausage with peppers (being an Islamic society, pork is not served), cheese, breads, fruit, freshly made doughnuts, and crepes. I put some caramel and mini chocolate chips onto the crepe, making it absolutely delectable.We went back to the room to get our day packs together and went downstairs at 9:15 for our 9:30 departure time. Jamal and Majid were right on time, and Majid drove us to the Hassan II Mosque. The weather was beautiful, and the sea breeze was strong. In the building where Jamal bought our entrance tickets, there was an exhibit of zellige tile mosaics in bright, colorful, geometric patterns. Though it employed timeless architectural craftsmanship, the Hassan II Mosque is actually quite new. It was a gift for King Hassan II's 60th birthday in 1989. Construction started in 1986, and the building was inaugurated in 1993. It was built partially on land and partially over the ocean, by creating a platform linking a natural rock outcrop reclaimed from the sea. This location was key due to the Koranic quote that "Allah has His throne on the water." The mosque's minaret is 575 feet high, making it the 2nd tallest religious building in the world. The minaret is decorated with green tiles; green being the color of Islam. The minaret has an elevator, but the current muezzin is too old to go all the way up to do the call to prayer. Instead, he does it from below and it is transmitted from the minaret via microphones and speakers. Unlike some mosques, the call to prayer is never pre-recorded in Casablanca; it is always performed live. The mosque comprises 20,000 square meters. It can hold 20,000 men inside on the main floor, and 5,000 women in spruce wood balconies (spruce is used for its resistance to moisture and bugs). 80,000 additional worshipers can be accommodated outside in the massive courtyard. The Hassan II Mosque is the only mosque in Morocco which can be visited by non-Muslims. This edict dates back to the time of the French protectorate. The French rode their horses through a mosque and defiled it, which led to the Frenchmen in question being killed. In order to prevent future religious-based conflict, it was decreed that people of different faiths couldn't enter one another's spaces of worship. Hassan II, as a show of good faith, decided to allow non-Muslims to tour his beautiful new mosque. We entered the mosque through oversized doors, made from titanium for protection from the sea air. We took off our shoes and they gave us little bags to carry them in. We were immediately in awe of the beauty which surrounded us. Every surface is adorned in some way, be it with zellige (tile mosaics), zawaq decorative painting, wood carving, plaster friezes, Arabic calligraphy, marble, or metalwork. The scale of the place dwarfs humans. All of the materials used in construction of the mosque are native to Morocco, except for some Italian granite columns and Murano chandeliers. Technology is also in play here, as there is a retractable wooden ceiling which can open in just 3 minutes to let in the sunshine and fresh air. Glass embedded within the marble floor tiles allows you to look down into the ablutions area in the level below. Although the space is massive, there were different smaller areas with a chair where an imam could meet with a small group of scholars or worshippers. We try to be as respectful as possible when visiting places of worship. Unfortunately, not all visitors feel the same. Though not quite as disrespectful as riding horses through the mosque, we did witness a young woman posing provocatively and having her boyfriend take fashion photographs of her. She was wearing a sheer dress and was posing so that she was backlit by the doors overlooking the ocean. She was making it all about her, with this beautiful place of worship being nothing but a backdrop for her influencer posts. We were reminded of news stories from other parts of the world where places of worship have been closed to visitors and/or have had photography disallowed due to behavior like this. After thoroughly enjoying touring the main floor of the mosque, we went downstairs to the ablutions area. There were spigots along one wall, and there were lotus-shaped fountains (not currently turned on) where people can wash before praying. This area of the building was also beautifully decorated. We then went outside and took some photos on the grounds. Everything is so picturesque here, from the stunning location on the coast to all of the architectural details inside and out. It is definitely the crown jewel of Casablanca.  Hassan II Mosque We hopped back into the van and drove to the Notre-Dame de Lourdes Catholic church. There was a grotto outside with a Virgin Mary statue. People were saying prayers and lighting candles here. We went inside the church, but as it was Sunday, there was a Mass about to begin. Because of this, we couldn't take photos. The church is a brutalist structure but the walls are completely decorated with stained glass, and it casts confetti-like colors into the church's interior. The church was packed with parishioners. There were no empty pews. Since Christianity and Judaism together only make up 1% of the Moroccan population, it was surprising to see so many people gathered for a Sunday Mass. After that, we went to the Mahkamat al-Pasha (the Pasha's courthouse), an administrative building dating back to the 1940's. However, like the Hassan II Mosque, it was built using traditional methods, so it has a timeless quality to it. There are many rooms and courtyards decorated with zellige mosaic tile work, stucco work, carved cedar wood, and green-tiled roofs. The architectural detail was stunning. We had the place to ourselves and enjoyed wandering around and taking some photos. Next, Majid dropped us off to explore the Habbous, or new medina, which was built in the 1930’s by the French. The city’s traditional medina (old walled city) was destroyed by the Lisbon earthquake in 1755. As such, the new medina doesn’t have the romantic narrow labyrinthine streets of other older Moroccan medinas (the alleyways here in the Habbous are wide enough to accommodate cars), but it was still a pleasure to stroll by the shops selling metalwork, tea sets, clothing, and souvenirs. Jamal pointed out the Moroccan slippers, called "babouche", which come in all manners of colors. There are basically two styles: Berber (rounded toes) and Arabic (pointed toes). Despite the fact that the alleys are wide, you still get the feeling that you are in a city within a city as you wander beneath archways and past souks. We went into an open air olive market, and the smell was delicious and overpowering. We started seeing the famed Moroccan street cats. They looked healthier and cleaner than we had anticipated. As someone who volunteers at a cat cafe back home, I was enchanted by the cats and photographed some of them. We stopped into the famous Patisserie Bennis, renowned for its pastries. Jamal suggested going here, and I had read about it in my Insight Guide. I wanted to buy two cookies but they gave them to us for free. They were so delicious and fresh that we bought half a dozen more for just 10 dirham ($1). The bakery dates back to 1930 and is family-owned. The bakery started to get crowded as a large tour group entered. We finished our transaction, and, not for the last time, we were thankful that we were not on a group tour with a bus full of people. Across from Patissierie Bennis is the public bakery. Not everyone has ovens in their homes. The bakery has fires burning all day, and people can drop off items to be cooked and pick them up later. We saw people dropping off and picking up trays of bread. Jamal drew our attention to a pastilla, a meat pie cooked in flaky warqa dough, which someone was just picking up. It looked delicious and I made a mental note that it was something that I would like to try at some point. All Islamic communities contain a public bakery, a hammam, a Koranic school, a mosque, and a public fountain. We learned that the Moroccan flag's 5-pointed star signifies the 5 pillars of Islam (faith, prayer, alms, fasting, and pilgrimage). Unlike the flags of other Islamic countries, there is no crescent on the Moroccan flag because they weren't ever conquered by the Ottomans. We saw the white Art Deco Sacred Heart church, which dates back to 1930, from the outside, and went to Parc de la Ligue Arabe (Arab League Park). It was a beautiful day for strolling between the mosaic-tiled fountains and rows of palm trees. We walked through Mohammed V Square. Kids were playing and people were selling bird seed to feed the birds. We saw a garrab (traditional water seller) wearing a red djellaba robe and an ornate hat. He was carrying a goatskin bag full of water and brass cups from which people can drink. We strolled through the streets showcasing Art Deco and neoclassical architecture. Jamal took us down a side street saying there is a building that he thought we would like to see. When we arrived, we instantly recognized the Art Deco Cinema Theatre Rialto from a photograph in our room back at the hotel. Next, went to a market where there they were selling lots of fresh seafood, produce, and meat. They had giant European spider crab for sale. You can buy seafood here and bring it to a neighboring restaurant and they will cook it for you. We also saw that they had horse meat in some of the butcheries. When I posted to Facebook that we were going to Casablanca, there were many obligatory comments about the classic film "Casablanca." Though it was not filmed in Morocco, it has captured everyone's imagination. There is a Rick's Cafe restaurant in Casablanca, which is modeled after the cafe in the movie. When we mentioned it, Jamal immediately asked if we'd like him to make a dinner reservation for us. That wasn't necessary, but we thought it might be fun to get a photo in front of the building. Jamal and Majid were more than happy to oblige, and Majid drove us there. We got out of the car and Jamal got a photo of us under the Rick's Cafe sign. Since we didn't want to eat at Rick's, Jamal asked what we did want to do for food. We were getting hungry, and it was around 4 o'clock. We decided that we could eat a late lunch / early dinner now, and then be all set for the rest of the day. Jamal suggested eating at Medina, a restaurant that locals frequent. That sounded perfect to us! After learning about the existence of pastilla at the public bakery (I never met a meat pie I didn't like), when I saw it on the menu here, I decided to try it. It was exquisite, a combination of sweet and savory with chicken and almonds and spices, topped with confectioner's sugar and cinnamon. Craig got chicken tajine with almonds and onions. He got lemon juice with ginger to drink, and I had a Coke. The entire lunch cost $21, including tip. What a bargain! We got back to the hotel around 5 p.m. I did posts to Facebook and Instagram and then typed up notes on my laptop. We were tired after a busy but satisfying day, and went to bed at around 8:30 p.m. Hassan II Mosque Mahkamat al-Pasha Patisserie Bennis Habous Medina Moroccan Taste Restaurant |
 Hassan II Mosque  Selfie with Jamal at the Hassan II Mosque  Hassan II Mosque  Hassan II Mosque downstairs  Hassan II Mosque ablutions area  Hassan II Mosque  Mahkamat al-Pasha  Habbous  Patissierie Bennis Habous  Parc de la Ligue Arabe (Arab League Park) See all photos from February 18 |
 Hassan II Mosque  Ablutions area beneath Hassan II Mosque |
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