Türkiye 2/1/2020 - 2/9/2020 |
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Thursday 2/6/2020 - Serifiye Cistern, Nuruosmaniye Mosque, Grand Bazaar, Spice Market, Sirkeci Station and the Orient Express, Agatha Christie's Legacy at the Pera Palace Hotel, Galata TowerWe lamented the fact that this would be our last amazing breakfast at the Shangri-La Bosphorus, as we would be flying to Izmir tomorrow morning. So we savored everything and took some photos of the elaborate breakfast spread. Starting our days with this robust a breakfast made three meals per day superfluous.Today's itinerary was centered around the markets and shops of the Old City, but Toplum also had a few surprises up his sleeve. It was a lovely way to spend our final day in Istanbul. We met Toplum in the lobby at 8:30 a.m., and we walked out to the car together. Türker drove us to our first stop in Old Town. On the way, I noticed a sign for Kennedy Avenue, and Toplum confirmed that it was indeed named for former U.S. President John F. Kennedy. The U.S. and Türkiye had been allied since Türkiye entered WWII in 1945. From the earliest stages of the Cold War, the U.S. partnered with Turkish militarily to prevent Soviet military expansion into the Turkish Straits. Türker dropped us off near the Column of Constantine, and we would be on foot for the next couple of hours. This column once stood as the centerpiece of the Forum of Constantine. It was erected to commemorate the dedication of Constantinople on 11 May 330 A.D. It used to be topped by a bronze statue of Emperor Constantine dressed as Apollo, but hurricane winds toppled the statue in 1106 A.D. Iron hoops were added around the stone cylinders which made up the Column of Constantine by the Ottomans in the early 16th century to stabilize them. Because of this, this column is nicknamed Çemberlitaş, from the Turkish words for "hooped" (çemberli) and "stone" (taş). The neighborhood was consumed by fire in 1779. The column survived, but since it was charred, it also gained the nickname "The Burnt Column." Not far from the Column of Constantine was the Serifiye (a.k.a. Theodosius) Cistern. This cistern was built in 428 A.D. by Theodosius II approximately a century prior to the construction of the Basilica Cistern. The Serifiye Cistern had been forgotten to time, built over in the 1950's. But when that buildng was demolished in 2010, the cistern was rediscovered. After an extensive 8 year restoration effort, it opened to the public in April, 2018. The cistern has been restored and it is brightly lit and even accessible via elevator. Compared to the dimly lit, cave-like Basilica Cistern, the Serifiye Cistern has a modern industrial feel. Glass partitions protect the bases of the 32 9-meter-tall columns. The columns themselves are strengthened with stainless steel hoops (modern day çemberlitaş technique) . Raised walkways lead throughout the 45 x 25 meter space, keeping visitors above the few inches of clean, clear water on the stone floor. The arched brick ceilings are high, and LED lights are strategically aimed to add to the ambiance. The space is also used as a gallery and concert hall. We were there during a photographic exhibit. The floor was covered with a few inches of clean, clear water, and we walked on walkways above it. Pleasant music was playing and it was very serene and inspiring. We can only imagine how amazing a classical music concert would sound down here. Serifiye Cistern After exploring the cistern, Toplum took us to a carpet workshop and showroom. As we walked down the street, I stopped to photograph a rustic looking old building with an elaborate metal scrollwork door. It had a tiled gable over the door. It turned out that this was our destination: Punto of Istanbul. Toplum had explained that over the course of our tour of the shops and markets of the Old City, we would visit top-notch artisans to see their beautiful and high quality creations. He told us that there was no obligation to buy anything. This was fine with us, and we have been in many similar situations in places like India. Hospitality in these types of workshops is usually very warm, with refreshments and a relaxed atmosphere in which they will give a demonstration of how the item is produced, and then fetch any particular designs or sizes you may be interested in. We have bought handicrafts and artworks in these types of situations before. Although we didn't expect to go home with a carpet, it's always a possibility if we find just the right thing. We were certainly interested in seeing some fine examples of modern day Turkish carpet making. In the museums, we had seen woolen carpets over 700 years old; it would be interesting to see how designs and workmanship had evolved over the centuries. Toplum introduced us to Metin Ulakci, who warmly welcomed us to his family's carpet showroom. His family has been selling some of the finest hand-made Turkish rugs for a century. Turkish carpets are woven exclusively by women, and he had a master weaver on-site who demonstrated the knotting techniques. She had a pattern placed slightly above her eye level. She would pick out a short piece of thread in the appropriate color to match her place in the pattern, and expertly knot it around the vertical threads on the loom. She would then use a tool to mash the knot down tight against previous rows, and it would later be trimmed to a uniform length. Metin encouraged me to try my hand at tying a carpet knot. I am not very crafty, so I didn't have high hopes for this. The master weaver was very patient and ensured that my knot eventually sat correctly. Let's just say I shouldn't quit my day job. Metin brought us into a room with a vast hardwood floor. Carpets were hung on the walls, as well as being rolled and stacked around the perimeter of the room. Metin offered us something to drink, and we gratefully accepted Turkish coffee. He advised his three assistants to gather various styles of carpet to show us. The carpets were amazingly beautiful, with some made of silk and others of wool. The directionality of the fibers means that by turning it 180 degrees, the colors can look completely different. Metin explained the difference between the more traditional tribal designs and the more modern urban designs. The colors of the rugs were so vibrant. The silk carpets seemed particularly impressive (maybe this is because we already have a hand-knotted wool carpet from Rajasthan, India). The silk carpets had a beautiful pearly sheen to them. The work was so fine that even the back of the rug didn't have a pixelated look to it; even when it contained very delicate flower and animal motifs. Although we hadn't planned on buying a carpet, we fell in love with one of the silk designs. It was an urban design unique to Punto which has won international awards. The color palette consists of different shades of blue with gold and black accents. The pattern is inspired by Islamic art. Metin directed his assistants to gather the various sizes they had in stock of this particular design. They laid them all out at our feet. We chose a smaller size, figuring that with our cats, it would be safer as a wall hanging than on the floor. The size was such that we could have carried it home with us, but it was heavy. Metin offered to ship it at no charge. That would also allow him the opportunity to sew silk loops onto the back for ease of hanging. We went downstairs (past more piles of carpets - how they know just where to find any one particular carpet is mind-blowing) to use the restroom in the basement. This building really has a lot of character; you feel like you could stumble onto a passage which leads beneath the modern city. We took some photos with Metin both inside and outside the showroom. We thanked him for his hospitality, and we looked forward to the arrival of our new Turkish carpet. It is a quintessential Turkish souvenir, after all. As we made out way toward the Grand Bazaar, we passed Nuruosmaniye Mosque, which dates back to 1749. Toplum asked if we would like to stop in to have a look. We love Islamic art and architecture, so we gladly accepted this offer. This mosque is unique in its architecture because its outdoor courtyard is semicircular in shape, instead of the usual square. Heavy tarps covered the doors to the mosque to keep out the howling wind. We took off our shoes and Toplum pulled aside the tarps to let us in. We were the only ones there, and the atmosphere was ethereal. Light filtered in through beautiful stained glass windows. One hundred seventy four total windows lent a very light and airy feel to the interior. The walls were light gray marble, trimmed with gold. The wall-to-wall carpeting was a soothing blue color, not unlike the color of the rug that we had just purchased! We would later find out that our dear friend Karmilla prayed at this mosque when she was touring Istanbul singing jazz. What a small world indeed! There are over 3,000 mosques in Istanbul, and it is definitely worth it to check out some which are a bit off the beaten tourist path! This one was a gem. Next we went to the Grand Bazaar, or Covered Market. It dates back to Byzantine times, but the core of the market, or bedesten, was built during the Ottoman reign in 1455 as a center for trading textiles and jewels. By the beginning of the 17th century, the Grand Bazaar had reached its current shape and scale, belying Istanbul's importance as the crossroads of East/West trade via the Silk Road. The Grand Bazaar is absolutely enormous, consisting of 61 indoor "streets" and over 4,000 shops. It attracts around 500,000 customers per day, and it is by no means just for tourists. There are sections for basically anything you can imagine: gold ingots, jewelry, carpets, paintings, calligraphy, antiques, linens, scarves, lamps, ceramics, souvenirs...it was a feast for the eyes and a temptation for the wallet. Some of the antique shops were the most fun to browse, as they had some unique and interesting items. There was merchandise available at every price point, from museum-quality workmanship to mass-produced souvenirs. Many shops sold nazar boncogu amulets: blue glass beads with a stylized image of an eye baked into the glass. These amulets serve as protection against the evil eye. I bought one for our dear friend Tyson, who is in the midst of teaching the inaugural semester of a skepticism class. We bought one for our Christmas tree as well. The lamps and lanterns made of colorful mosaic glass were entrancing. I had to restrain myself, as such a purchase would be difficult to ship home and, frankly, would look ridiculous in our home, no matter how beautiful they were. We admired elaborate tobacco pipes carved from meershaum. This clay-like mineral, also known as sepiolite, is mined from alluvial deposits between Istanbul and Ankara. When carved, it looks very much like ivory. Knowing of my interest in Agatha Christie novels (which we would explore in depth later today), Toplum mentioned to me that Christie's iconic inspector Hercule Poirot smoked a meershaum pipe. Some of the largest and most impressive pipes on display here were sculpted to resemble a Sultan's head. Others were shaped like a gas mask or depicted gnomes, dragons, or erotic scenes. Each pipe had its own custom-shaped velvet-lined hard clamshell case. There were large chunks of raw meerschaum in the same display case, and it is hard to believe that the raw material and the finished product are the same mineral. Turkish hospitality in these 4000 shops is enabled by tea sellers. These sellers carry mult-tiered trays with tea cups, saucers, spoons, and sugar. If a seller would like to offer a client some tea, he will summon the tea seller, who will promptly arrive with cups of hot fresh tea. This way, individual shopkeepers do not need to keep tea supplies in the often close quarters of their shops. We saw several of these sellers hustling around the bazaar. Toplum had some specific destinations in mind to showcase high quality artisan workmanship. The first of these stops was Iznik-Art by Ismail Yigit. Here, the age-old Iznik ceramic techniques have been utilized to create contemporary Iznik pieces in both classic and modern motifs. The work was exquisite, but the price tag (rightly) reflected the quality craftsmanship. Even though we didn't purchase anything, the salesman was quite friendly and taught us about the process and artist Ismail Yigit. Toplum also wanted to show us a shop which specializes in Arabic calligraphy painted on plant leaves. We entered a narrow, cozy, brick nook which houses Nick's Calligraphy. It was like stepping back in time, as this little showroom is packed with antiques and art. The leaves, painted by Nick Merdenyen, consist of vibrantly colored symbolic motifs accented with gold leaf. Elaborate Arabic calligraphy decorates the paintings, spelling out meaningful aphorisms. Nick's relatives were manning the shop today. They explained that the leaves that work best for this purpose, Dieffenbachia and Caladium, do not grow in Türkiye. He imported them from Holland, until they stopped exporting them. The leaves that he uses now are actually from Florida. These works of art are sold framed or mounted between two panes of glass with a small easel for tabletop display. Many leaves were already mounted in this way, while others were housed in albums protected by sheets of paper. There were many different motifs to choose from: Islamic, Christian, Judaic, Buddhist, Hindu, and secular. We were tempted to purchase one, but we were overwhelmed by the choices. He patiently read us the Arabic script for each type of design as we tried to narrow down our choices. We wanted something aesthetically pleasing which had a meaningful message. We finally found the perfect combination. It depicts a stylized Ottoman era oil lamp with a golden flame at its center. Calligraphy fills the flame, reading in Arabic, "A candle is not diminished by giving another candle light." Flecks of gold leaf spatter the surface. He showed us other examples of the same design, with variations in color pallette. Some were framed or mounted between glass; others were in the album. We studied each and every one and decided on our favorite. This was a loose painting in the album, but they told us that they could have it framed or mounted between glass in short order. We really wanted it to be framed, so they dispatched someone to a frame shop elsewhere in the Grand Bazaar. We paid for it and were told that it would be ready within half an hour; they would text Toplum when it was ready. We continued our exploration of the Bazaar. Toplum brought us to a textile shop. Like the Iznik tile shop, they use traditional techniques to produce modern as well as classic designs. Some of the fabrics were quite contemporary and bold in their design, and are only produced in limited editions. Even though we weren't looking to buy any textiles today, the shopleepers were quite hospitable and informative. They offered us refreshments (I'm sure they would have summoned the tea seller), but we politely declined. We passed some shops which specialize in gold. We only saw one #kedi (street cat) within the Grand Bazaar, and it was licking its lips outside a gold shop. Craig joked that it was a "money cat," though actually it was more tabby than calico. Toplum explained that gold ingots are a common gift for important life milestones in Turkish culture: the birth of a baby, etc. By now, Nick's shop had texted Toplum to tell him that our calligraphy painting was freshly framed. As we made our way back to the shop, we encountered the man who was on his way back from the framer's. We walked together to the shop, where they showed us the final product before wrapping it securely in layers of bubble wrap, taping it up, and placing it into a cloth shopping bag. We were delighted. This had been one of the most organized, clean, and professional markets we have ever been to. There was no sales pressure. Vendors would good-naturedly cajole you to try to get you to enter their shops, but if you didn't want to enter, they would wish you a good day with no hard feelings. Likewise, if you browsed in a shop but decided not to purchase anything. Most were amenable to photos whether you buy something or not, and were truly interested in educating you about their wares. They are quite honest; at one point I got a bit mixed up about the currency when purchasing some inexpensive tile trivets. I accidentally gave the seller too much money and he gently teased me and explained my mistake. Shopping there was a delightful experience. In yet another Istanbul James Bond connection, the Grand Bazaar has been featured in two Bond films. In From Russia with Love, Sean Connery wanders through the bazaar. In 2012's Skyfall," Daniel Craig embarks on an exciting motorcycle chase scene on the roof of the bazaar, eventually crashing through a window and continuing the chase in the indoor "streets" of the Bazaar. After exiting the covered Grand Bazaar, we walked toward the Spice Market. As you exit the Bazaar, you come to narrow streets lined with clothing shops. We noticed that Craig blends right in with Turkish men of a certain age; the black cashmere coat that he had inherited from his father was indistinguishable from coats worn by older Turkish gentlemen. Along our walk, we stopped to buy a simit from a street vendor. This is a circular piece of bread, glazed with grape molasses and topped with sesame seeds. It is a very popular snack in Türkiye, and we enjoyed it very much. Toplum explained that simits are also sold in bakeries, but most people prefer the street variety, swearing they can tell the difference. We had certainly seen simit carts everywhere throughout the citym, being sold the way that a soft pretzel would. The Spice Market is known for being more touristic than the Grand Bazaar, and as such is pricey, relatively speaking. It is much smaller than the Grand Bazaar, but is full of exactly the types of specialty food items that travelers love to bring home to their respective countries. We enjoyed walking through and taking in the gorgeous colors and aromas of the various spices for sale. In addition to the spices, there was Turkish delight, dried fruit, loose tea, glass tulip-shaped tea cups, and cevze (small long-handled copper pots used in Turkish coffee preparation). After exiting through the opposite end of the Spice Market, we emerged into a cold wind. Toplum suggested that we try sahlep, a local favorite hot beverage made from milk and wild orchid root powder. A woman was selling sahlep from a large brass samovar on the sidewalk in front of candy shop Şekerci Cafer Erol. Toplum took me inside to pay, and suggested that we buy one to try, and if we like it, buy a second. We assumed we would both like it, but his hesitance made us think that maybe it was an acquired taste. The woman prepared a cup for us, and sprinkled cinnamon liberally on top. The sahlep was quite hot, and Craig and I each took a careful sip to avoid burning our mouths. It was delicious, and I immediately returned to the cash register to buy a cup for myself. It was too hot to drink it while walking, so we went inside and sat at a table to enjoy it at a liesurely pace. Toplum asked if we were hungry for lunch. Having had a massive breakfast at the hotel, the simit and sahlep were all we needed. He went next door to pick up a light lunch for himself. The sahlep tasted absolutely delicious. It was like you were drinking the filling of a custard pie while it was still hot. Or maybe a very thick hot egg nog. It warmed us up and we enjoyed it quite a bit. The folks at the candy shop were quite hospitable, and gave us each a complimentary piece of delicious soft Turkish delight. Next, Toplum indulged a special request of mine, allowing this Agatha Christie fangirl's dream to come true. When I was a teenager I was obsessed with Agatha Christie's classic crime novels. Murder on the Orient Express was the first one I read, and it remains one of my favorites. When I had found out that the Eastern terminus of the Orient Express, Sirkeci Station, was in the Old City of Istanbul, I really wanted to visit it. I had mentioned this to Toplum when he picked us up at the airport, when he had asked if there were any particular places we wanted to see. The station wasn't far from the Spice Market, so we easily got there on foot. The story of the Orient Express in Türkiye really goes back to Sultan Abdülaziz. He was invited by Napoleon III to visit the International Paris Exhibition in 1867. He was interested in western culture and wanted to attend, but there was a problem. Sultans were not permitted to step on non-Islamic soil unless they were trying to convert and/or conquer the people there. This was a conundrum, but they came up with a solution. Special platform shoes were made for the sultan. A layer of soil imported from Mecca was placed in between the insole and the outer sole. Sure, it's a technicality, but his actual feet would never be in contact with non-Islamic ground. He would indeed be stepping on Islamic soil wherever he went. It must have been a sight to behold; a man already unusually large in stature now even taller because of these sacred platform shoes! Anyway, once that was settled, he set off on his journey wearing his new shoes. He traveled with an entourage of 56 people, setting off from Istanbul on the yacht Sultaniye on June 21. They arrived in Paris on June 30. He enjoyed the exposition, and after its conclusion, he visited London where he was knighted by Queen Victoria. The Sultan's return journey included yachts, riverboats, and a luxury train. He stopped in various countries to visit various leaders. He returned to Istanbul on August 7, after 47 days traveling. He was so impressed by the luxury train journey that he was inspired to commission the first Ottoman railway networks, beginning in 1869. There had been individual unconnected railroads in the Ottoman Empire since the 1850's, and the Sultan donated land abutting Topkapi Palace as a location for railroad tracks and Sirkeci Station. Five years earlier, the genesis of the Orient Express manifested in the mind of Georges Nagelmackers. After experiencing Pullman sleeper cars on American railroads, Nagelmackers dreamed of 1500 miles are track, spanning the entire length of the continent of Europe. He went on to establish the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits (CIWL), and the Orient Express. The Orient Express departed on its inaugural direct journey from Paris to Istanbul (via Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, Budapest, and Bucharest) on June 1, 1889. The journey took 80 hours. In 1919, an alternate route was opened, made possible by construction of the Simplon Tunnel in the Alps between Italy and Switzerland. The Simplon Orient Express ran from Istanbul to Sofia, Belgrade, Venice, Milan, Lausaunne, and Paris. This was the route taken by detective Hercule Poirot in Agatha Christie's 1934 classic crime novel Murder on the Orient Express. The train became not only a symbol of luxury travel, but of intrigue and romance. In 1977, the Orient Express stopped serving Istanbul. In 2009, the Orient Express ceased operation. But Sirkeci Station and its railway museum allow us a glimpse into its grandeur. Sirkeci Station has been modernized but retains its brick and marble facade from those glory days of train travel. The building has beautiful vintage medallion stained glass windows. The rails of platform one, via which Sean Connery's James Bond boarded the Orient Express in From Russia With Love, were obscured by particle board fencing, but through creative camera angles, I was still able to capture the platform itself and the facade of the building. After admiring the exterior of the building, we went inside to the charming one room Istanbul Railway Museum. As we entered the museum, it was like stepping back in time. Vintage chandeliers hung from vaulted ceilings. The woodwork and furniture were dark and heavy. Cats were comfortably sleeping in the antique chairs, seeking refuge from the weather which was bordering on snow. The small museum was jam-packed with objects tracing the history of railroads in Istanbul, from local intra-city light rail to the legendary international Orient Express. Glass display cases held train ticket, ticket punches, historical photographs, watchman's clocks, and lanterns. A station clock hung on the wall. There was a model railway set up on a table. Metal signage adorned the walls. There was even the front half of a engine car from an electric light rail. Typewriters, analog adding machines, rotary telephones, and portable telegraph machines attested to the technology of the time. A tableaux commemorating the first dining car service in Türkiye (on the Haydarpasa-Sincanköy line in late 1925) consisted of upholstered swivel chairs and a table set with plates and flatware, as well as a menu. The train window is framed by mustard colored curtains adorned with "TCDD" (the acronym for Turkish State Railways). Of course a cat was comfortably snoozing on one of the chairs! Another cat was asleep on a towel atop the steam radiator in the corner. It was certainly much more cozy in here than in the bitter wind outside! There were a total of 5 cats in the museum, and there was food and water available to them. And then there were the Orient Express exhibits. There were vintage advertisements for the various routes of the luxury train, including the Venice-Simplon route immortalized in Murder on the Orient Express. Silver coffee and teapots and ice buckets were engraved with the WL logo of the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits. Heavy silver flatware, trays, and serving dishes were displayed. There was a one-way ticket from London to Istanbul from 1959. There was a gold-plated medallion commemorating final service from Paris to Istanbul, which took place on May 19, 1977. A mannequin was dressed in a Wagon-Lits conductor uniform, and I inspected the brass buttons on the suitcoat, as such a button appears as a clue in Murder on the Orient Express. Vintage suitcases were on display, and stickers on them proclaimed "Orient Express Konstantopel." We exited the museum and walked through the station's waiting area to see the front facade of the building. Orient Express Locomotive 407 (an 1874 steam engine later christened TCDD 2251) was on display in a small garden beside the building. One of Craig's relatives had a history with Pullman coach, and my grandfather was a track foreman, and we were both very interested in this museum. When we were done soaking up the atmosphere at this historic train station, Toplum asked what we wanted to do next. He gave us some options, including an anthropology museum, a military museum, or exploring the bohemian Galata neighborhood (which boasts the iconic Galata Tower as well as an Agatha Christie connection). Although today's weather was more appropriate for indoor activities, neither of us felt up to going to another museum. We had seen the Galata Tower at a distance from various vantagepoints within the city. We decided that we wanted to see it up close, and of course why not continue with our Agatha Christie adventures? So Toplum called Türker to come and pick us up. We waited inside the Sirkeci Station waiting room, with its stained glass windows and dark wood interior, to get out of the wind and drizzle while waiting. The car arrived within 5 minutes, and we drove to the Pera Palace Hotel. None other than Dame Agatha Christie herself frequented this hotel. She wrote my beloved Murder on the Orient Express while staying in her regular room (#411). The hotel dates back to 1892, and recently underwent a costly renovation to restore it to its historical grandeur. As we stepped inside the hotel lobby, we were immediately transported to a time when travel was glamourous and luxurious. In fact, in the lobby, there was a sedan chair in which Orient Express passengers were hand-carried from Sirkeci Station to the Pera Palace. This is a distance of almost 2.5 km, across the Golden Horn and uphill! When the hotel first opened, it was the only building in the city other than the Ottoman palaces to offer electricity and hot running water. It also boasted the first electric elevator in the city. At first, we felt a bit out of place. We were dressed casually, and were windblown and wet from the weather. The staff were impeccably dressed, and the whole atmosphere was one of sophistication. The interior design evokes Old World elegance, with chandeliers, marble floors, and dark wood furnishings upholstered with luxurious velvet. But we soon realized that other guests were dressed similarly to us. We stepped into a gorgeous grand study, featuring bookshelves and globes, stained glass windows, and a domed false ceiling with elephant eye windows to let in light. The staff was preparing for afternoon high tea, which takes place from 3-6 p.m. daily, and teacups and place settings were laid out on the coffee tables in the various seating areas. This room made me want to get comfortable on one of the couches, sip a cup of tea, and get lost in a book. We passed through this room to get to the Orient Bar, a dark and cozy old fashioned watering hole which was a favorite haunt of Ernest Hemingway. The hotel featured in Hemingway's short story The Snows of Kilimanjaro. On the walls were photographs of famous hotel guests, including Hemingway, Agatha Christie, former First Lady Jackie Kennedy Onassis, and Ian Fleming. This was yet another James Bond connection, but that is hardly surprising when one considers the role espionage has played in the history of the hotel. Türkiye was officially neutral in World War II until 1945. Istanbul's location at the crossroads of Europe and Asia made it the unofficial spy capital of the war. Allied spies stayed at the Pera Palace, while Axis spies stayed at the Park Hotel on the opposite side of Beyoglu district (formerly known as Pera). In fact, in 1941, a (supposedly Nazi) bomb destroyed the main entrance to the Pera Palace Hotel, although this is not at all apparent today. Toplum is friendly with the management here, and he spoke in Turkish to an elegantly dressed man wearing a suit with tails and an ascot tie. He looked quite dapper and proper, but with a little bit of rock star in that he had a short curly gray ponytail at the nape of his neck. He led us to the antique elevator, which was installed at the hotel's inception in 1892. The beautiful wooden elevator compartment sat in a metal cage with intricate decorative black iron scrollwork. There was an old-fashioned semicircular floor indicator, with an arrow that pointed to the floor where the elevator was currently located. Tall brass candelabra lamps flanked the elevator, which was sealed off by a velvet rope. We admired it as a work of art, and I took some photos. We assumed that the ~130 year old elevator was no longer in service, but instead remained as a reminder of the hotel's history. But to our surprise, our host detached the velvet rope and ushered us inside. There was an upholstered wooden bench seat on the rear wall of the elevator, and Craig and I took a seat, even for the short ride, just because we could. Our host closed the wood and glass doors and we rose to the 4th floor. What a treat! A nameplate inside the elevator indicated that it was made by Schindler (or Şindler in Turkish). We exited the elevator on the 4th floor. Here we found ourselves in a light-filled 6 floor atrium beneath a glass roof. We looked down over the bannisters to see the false roof above the study. This roof contains six domes with elephant eye skylights. It gives a nice effect, providing natural light but also the feeling of being in a cozy cocoon rather than a bright spacious atrium. We had seen these types of elephant eye domes in other Ottoman architecture (Topkapi Palace hamams, within the Grand Bazaar) from the inside, so it was cool to see what they looked like from above. Here in the 4th floor atrium hallways, we saw glass display cases containing historical artifacts related to the hotel. Our host explained that the hotel is involved in a real-life mystery surrounding Agatha Christie. In 1926, she went missing for 11 days from her home in Berkshire, England after her car was found crashed into a tree. She was presumed dead, but eventually turned up in a hotel in Yorkshire, England, registered under a false name, with no memory of the incident. In 1979, three years after her death, Hollywood commissioned a movie about Dame Agatha's life. They were interested in trying to solve the mystery of her 11 day disappearance. They got in touch with medium Tamara Rand and asked her to contact Agatha Christie's spirit. Rand claimed that the spirit told her that a clue to the mystery was hidden under the floorboards of Christie's favorite room at the Pera Palace Hotel in Istanbul. They contacted the hotel, whose staff searched under the floors in room 411. There they found a mysterious key. Rand claimed that the key would provide access to Christie's diary, which would answer the question of her disappearance once and for all. The diary has never been found. An autographed photo of Rand, as well as a replica of the key, were on display in one of the cases. In another was an advertisement for the Simplon Orient Express, flanked by vintage Pera Palace china on the left, and vintage Orient Express china on the right. We were led to the door of room 411. A brass plaque announced it as the Agatha Christie room. The room was currently occupied, so our host apologized that we would be unable to see the interior. No matter, I was thrilled by the whole experience. I was totally geeking out. Also on display on the 4th floor were vintage Christofle silverware pieces (some of which date back to the hotel's inaugural ball in 1895). This cache of silver was among 5,000 pieces which were discovered in a secret room during hotel renovations. When we had finished exploring the 4th floor, we took the antique elevator down to the first floor of guest rooms. Room 101, where the first President of the Republic of Türkiye Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed at the hotel when he was in Istanbul (a total of 18 times between 1915 and 1937), has been turned into a museum in his honor. We entered via the sitting room with a beautiful Turkish carpet, heavy salmon colored window drapes, and silk upholstered sofas and chairs. Historic newspapers and periodicals were displayed on a coffee table. A display case contained Atatürk's fashionable linen suit. A photograph in the display case depicted him wearing this suit while rowing in one of the wooden boats we saw at the Naval Museum yesterday. We proceeded into a cozy sleeping chamber with heavy wooden bedframe and wardrobe closet. On the wall was a framed copy of Time magazine from 1927 with Atatürk gracing the cover. A bathroom tiled in white and turquoise had lots of natural light, and featured a western style toilet, bathtub, and sink. Unbeknownst to us at the time, the Atatürk Museum room is only open two hours per day: 10-11 a.m. and 3-4 p.m. We arrived to view it at 3:15. As usual, Toplum had all of these logistics in his head and planned everything so perfectly that the effort was imperceptible. But it also explains why our presence at that time of day was not unusual; the Atatürk Museum and afternoon tea draw non-hotel guest visitors to the hotel in the late afternoon. We thanked our host for the hospitality and walked down to the lobby, and out onto the street. What an amazing treat Toplum had up his sleeve! This was such an interesting stop, improvised by Toplum when he realized how interested I was in Agatha Christie and the Orient Express. This is the kind of flexibility that we really like with private trips. We walked in the general direction of Galata Tower, and Toplum pointed out the building which used to house the American Embassy (before the capital moved to Ankara). We walked along a street on which many buildings were in the process of being demolished, and popped out in the charming narrow winding cobblestone streets of Galata. By now it was raining pretty heavily, in addition to the cold wind. There were even a few snow flurries here and there. But we had umbrellas and warm coats, so the weather didn't bother us. Four story townhouses of beautiful architecture towered above the streets, giving the neighborhood a labyrinthine feel. We passed shops selling colorful Turkish Delight, carts selling fresh simits, and coffee shops. There were many shops selling musical instruments, from local stringed instruments to Fender and Washburn electric guitars, to sitars, to cellos and violins, to drums, horns, and flutes. We passed a street performer playing the accordion. We saw a little bit of street art / graffiti art in a few places. We saw many stores selling inexpensive souvenirs, but we weren't really in the market for anything. Except a fridge magnet...we kept an eye out on the sidewalk displays but didn't see any that caught our eye. We emerged from our walk at Galata Tower, a 219 foot tower which dates back to 1348. It was built in a Romanesque style by the Genoese. It was the tallest building in the city when it was constructed. The tower is surprisingly wide. It has a very different look from the ubiquitous minarets of the city. Whereas minarets are slender and elegant, the Galata Tower is stout and defensive. Its outer diameter is 54 feet at the base, and its walls are over 12 feet thick! It looks straight out of a fairy tale, like you expect Rapunzel to lean out of one of the windows and let down her hair. You can go to the top of the tower for panoramic views, but today's stormy weather ensured that the view would not be great. By now it was after 3:30 p.m. Toplum asked if we wanted to wander around more to shop, or maybe sit in a cafe for a while. We would need to wake up very early in the morning. We would be leaving the hotel at 6 a.m. to go to the airport. We still had to pack our bags, and we wanted to get to bed at a reasonable time. Our legs were also tired after walking all day, and the weather was cold and wet. So we decided it was best to head back to the hotel. Toplum called Türker, who quickly arrived to pick us up and drive us back to the Shangri-La. We thanked Toplum and Türker for a great day, with plans to meet early tomorrow morning. As usual, the moment we entered the hotel, the staff and duty manager welcomed us by name and asked if there was anything that they could do for us. The personalized service at this hotel is truly extraordinary. When we got back to the room, Craig took a siesta while I posted to Facebook and Instagram about my Agatha Christie fangirl adventures. We decided to go to the nearby House Cafe for dinner. Toplum had recommended this as a nice casual place with a broad menu. We had walked by it several times, so we knew just where it was located, a short walk from the hotel. We sat at a corner table in the cozy restaurant. Craig enjoyed an Efes Malt beer and I enjoyed a Moscow Mule. We studied the menu, and (unsurprisingly) ultimately decided on the same meal: a Turkish meatball burrito with fries. It was delicious! A young man and two young women entered the restaurant with a pet carrier in their arms. They chose a table close to ours. They opened the carrier and their adorable puppy came out. They secured his leash around the base of their table, and he curled up on the floor. The rest rooms were close to our tables, and when the young man went to use the rest room, the dog became a bit nervous and didn't relax until he returned to the table. Animals are so well accepted in Turkish society that nobody batted an eye, except to pet and generally gush over the cute and well-behaved dog. I asked if I could take a photo of the dog, and they responded affirmatively (in English) and said that I was also welcome to pet him. I walked over to greet the dog and chat with them (Craig was seated on a bench seat and it was difficult for him to get out with his cane, so he just smiled from his seat). The man just moved back to Türkiye after living in New York City. The pup is a 5 month old former street dog whom he rescued and named Amigo. We had a really nice chat. Animals truly bring people together and break the ice! We would have stuck around for another round of drinks, but we knew that we had an early morning flight tomorrow followed by a full day of sightseeing. It was hard to believe that our time in Istanbul was coming to a close, but we were very glad that Toplum would be accompanying us on the remainder of the trip as well! We walked back to the hotel (crossing the main street with the resident street dog who camps out at the crosswalk), finished packing, and went to sleep. Grand Bazaar Sirkeci Station and Railroad Museum Galata Tower |
 Serifiye Cistern  Carpetmaker at Punto Carpet showroom  Punto Carpet showroom  With Metin Ulakci at Punto Carpet showroom  Nuruosmaniye Mosque  Nuruosmaniye Mosque  Grand Bazaar  Glass lanterns, Grand Bazaar  Meershaum pipes, Grand Bazaar  Nick's Calligraphy, Grand Bazaar  #Kedi, Grand Bazaar  Buying a street simit  Spice market  Enjoying a hot cup of sahlep at Sekerci Cafer Erol  Platform #1, Sirkeci Station, eastern terminus of the Orient Express  At Sirkeci Station, eastern terminus of the Orient Express  Orient Express locomotive  Orient Express / Agatha Christie exhibits at the Railway Museum and Pera Palace Hotel  Pera Palace Hotel  Historic elevator, Pera Palace Hotel  Room #101, Atatürk Museum Room, Pera Palace Hotel  Galata Tower See all photos from February 6 |
 Nuruosmaniye Mosque courtyard  Nuruosmaniye Mosque |
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