Friday 11/4/2016 - Mandalay: 4 a.m. Buddha washing at Maha Muni Pagoda, Trishaw ride, Shwenandaw Kyuang, Mahagandayon Monastery, Uminthonezel, Ponnyashin Pagoda, Shwe Sin Tai Silkwear, Sunset at U Bein BridgeWe woke up at 3 a.m. after a fitful sleep. We always seem to sleep restlessly when we know that we are only getting a few hours of sleep. Maybe it is fear of oversleeping an early alarm. We quickly got dressed and met the group (minus Al, who opted to sleep in) in the lobby at 3:30.Our bus picked us up and we drove for 10 minutes to Maha Muni Pagoda for the daily ritual washing of an historically significant gilded Buddha image. This Buddha statue is said to be one of only 5 likenesses of Buddha thought to have been created within his lifetime. The story goes that Gautama Buddha visited the kingdom of Arakan (present day Mrauk U in Rahkine State). The king, King Sanda Thuriya, wanted him to leave behind an image of himself when he returned to India, so the Buddha sat for a week under a Bodhi tree while an image was moulded. The image was cast in bronze, and the resulting statue weighs 7 tons. The Buddha is said to have consecrated it with his own life force. In the 11th century, King Anawratha tried to move the statue from Arakan to Bagan, but he was unsuccessful. However, in 1784 Crown Prince Thado Minsaw conquered Arakan, and brought the statue to Mandalay as a war trophy. It was too large and heavy to transport as a whole, so it was cut into sections and then reassembled inside the pagoda. After the statue had resided for more than 200 years in Mandalay, in 1988 the monks of Maha Muni Pagoda commenced a daily ritual washing of the Buddha's face at dawn. We arrived at pagoda at around 3:45 a.m. It was still dark outside, and the place seemed deserted except for two people selling offerings at a table right outside the entrance. We bought strings of jasmine flowers from them and entered the building. The corridor in front of us was gated shut and locked. We posed for photos, since we were both wearing our longyis. The jasmine flowers smelled beautiful. All of a sudden, a majestic moth emerged towards us through the gate. It was surreal. Soon an attendant arrived and unlocked the gate. We walked down a long corridor. There were vendor stalls lining the perimeter, but they were all closed at this early hour. We arrived at the sanctum sanctorum, a gilded chamber. There were two sets of large locked gates behind which was the giant gilded Buddha image. People were gathering and sitting on the floor facing the gates. Men and women sat separately, with the men in the front section. Craig and I had brought two cameras, so Craig had his own and we were both able to photograph the proceedings from our separate vantagepoints. (In a very strange coincidence, we each took exactly 195 photos of the event. How does that happen?) We placed our jasmine flowers onto a silver tray as an offering. Other people brought flowers, food, and bottles of water. A procession consisting of monks in burgundy or saffron robes and temple attendants dressed in white approached the locked gate. Another majestic moth (or maybe the same one) flew toward us from behind the gates. It seemed spiritual, and brought to mind theories of reincarnation. A man seemed to try a few keys before he found the proper one that unlocked the outer gate. He then unlocked the inner gate, and for the first time we had an unobstructed view of the awe-inspiring Buddha. Monks filed toward the sanctum sanctorum, arms full of offerings. They handed them off to the temple attendantsm who arranged them carefully in front of the statue. Attendants polished the handrails of the steps which the head monk used to ascend the statue. They placed a wooden board for the monk to stand on, and he draped the body of the statue in multiple layers of saffron silk to keep it dry and clean while he washed the face. The monk took a small spray bottle and spritzed the statue. He then brushed the "teeth" (lips) of the statue. People in the audience started to chant, and there was mesmerizing musical accompaniment. Next, he slowly and deliberately applied a sandalwood-based polish (similar to thanaka) to the golden face. The care which was taken was phenomenal, like he was taking care of a child. People had brought cloths, and he cycled through various ones to wipe off the water and sandalwood paste, and buff the face. The cloths were then returned to their donors as a blessing. Once this process was complete, he fanned the face with two separate hand fans. It was absolutely gleaming. Next it was time for some restoration. The monk applied black lacquer to the Buddha's forehead and then added squares of gold leaf to the brow in a careful annd deliberate manner. Some of the offerings in the women's section were distributed amongst the women by the temple attendant. A man gave Genean and I each a sealed bottle of water that people had brought as offerings. We weren't sure whether there was something ritualistic that we were supposed to do with it. Genean asked a Burmese woman next to her, who looked at us kind of funny, and said, "It's water." It turned out that this water was blessed, and drinking it would bring us good karma. They also handed out some blessed jasmine flowers, and a local woman shared hers with Genean. A small plastic cup of what looked like milk tea was passed around. Everyone dipped a finger in it and then applied it to their hair. Genean and I did the same. We are not sure of the significance, but we wanted to partake in the ritual. When the monk was through restoring the head, it was time to work on the body. The protective saffron cloth was removed from the statue. He applied lacquer with a cloth over a huge area, which he would then painstakingly apply with gold leaf. By now, we had been there for 75 minutes, and Zaw suggested that it was a good time to take our leave. I admired that Craig was seated up front cross-legged for that entire time. His legs started to cramp and he was practicing seated meditation based on our visit to Chanmyay Yeiktha Meditation Centre ("pain, pain, pain"). Of course, this meant that by the time Zaw asked Craig if he was ready to leave, Craig said that he wasn't sure if he could get up. Luckily, Zaw helped him. Zaw said he has only ever had one other tour group who wanted to wake up early enough to do this, and even they only went for a few minutes to snap a few pictures. To us, this is a can't-miss once in a lifetime opportunity. We are so lucky to be with a group of ilke-minded travelers who are as eager to experience this kind of thing as we are. Even though we knew that starting our day this early would pretty much guarantee that Craig will feet very fatigued by this afternoon, we have no regrets. It was an amazing ritual to witness, and one of the things that we had been most looking forward to when we first read the itinerary. Again, this was not an experience manufactured for tourists. It is an elaborate spititual ritual performed every single day by this devout community. It is a way for the community to gain merit, and to proactively preserve an icon which they believe was immbued with the Buddha's own essence. On our way out, we saw monks collecting alms in the temple, and we made a donation. As we continued toward the exit, we saw an ATM machine inside the temple. This was not something that we had seen before! I guess monks don't take credit!  We arrived back at the hotel, and it still was only around 5:30 a.m. The dining room wasn't even open yet. We went back to the room to rest, and I posted to Facebook about the morning's activity. It was such a blessing to be able to witness such a ritual, and we wanted to make sure to solidify all of the details into our memories. We were pretty hungry by the time breakfast opened, having already been up for several hours. We went up to the 6th floor dining room and enjoyed the buffet fare, including coffee, pineapple juice, bread pudding, spring rolls, bacon, sausage, poundcake, noodles, toast, muffins, and bread pudding. The friendly manager spoke with us and took photos of all of the guests on his iPad. The restaurant seemed much more efficient this morning. At 8:00 a.m., we left the hotel for the second time today. We took a trishaw ride toward Mandalay Hill. These trishaws were tricycles where the passenger seat is beside the driver rather than behind him. My hips barely fit in the narrow seat. Each trishaw only took one passenger, so we were a caravan of 7 trishaws. I felt badly for my driver and Craig's, as we weigh more than most of the other folks in our group. The roads are very flat, and it takes a lot of effort to gain momentum, especially when we would have to stop often as cars passed in front of us. We were traveling in a biycle / motorbike lane, so we only had to deal with cars at intersections when they had to cross our lane. Mandalay Palace was to our left, with its crenolated city walls, moat, and ornate guard towers. This was the palace of King Mindon, though at this point it is mostly a recreation, the original structures having been lost during World War II. The slow pace of the trishaw ride was perfect for taking in scenery which is just a blur when we drove by in the van. As we approached Mandalay Hill, the pagodas came into focus more and more in the growing haze of the humid morning air. It was interesting to see the hilltop complex in the daylight from a distance, since we had visited there last night. Looking up at it, we feel we made the right call by not climbing the stairs. We then turned down a side street where there was less traffic, and we passed hawker stalls, a school, and a university where Buddhist monks and nuns are educated. The drivers dropped us off in front of Shwenandaw Kyuang, the Golden Palace Monastery. Several women had small roadside stalls where they were selling things. One of them offered to apply thanaka to my cheeks, and I happily accepted the offer. The natural sunsecreen is cooling and feels fresh on my skin in the heat. I bought a strip of postcards from her, and paid her with a crisp $5 bill. Although we had exchanged plenty of U.S. dollars into local kyat in Yangon, we found that vendors in the major cities preferred U.S. dollars. Shwenandaw Kyuang is a building carved entirely from teak wood. It was once a part of the Mandalay Palace complex of King Mindon. Since King Mindon died in this building, his son/successor King Thibaw thought that the building was inauspicious, and wanted it removed from Mandalay Palace. It was dismantled, moved, and reassembled in its current location in 1880 for use as a monastery. Ironically, its relocation meant that it is the only original building from Mandalay Palace to survive World War II. We took off our shoes and climbed the wooden steps to the monastery. The building was absolutely beautiful. The wood carving was exquisite and plentiful. It seemed as though almost every surface was adorned. The moniker of Golden Palace Monastery refers to the fact that the structure was once completely covered in gold leaf. Today, the gold leaf is mostly worn from the exterior, but inside it remains visible on the tree trunk columns and carved ceiling. The beautiful teak floor planks were about a foot wide. A Buddha statue surveyed the hall seated on a throne with mirrored mosaic tiles behind it. We walked through a set of teak doors to get to the other half of the building, where we saw some gilded furniture and a statue of two nats bearing a bell. As a larger tour bus pulled up, we put our shoes back on and headed toward our bus. It was nice that we had been able to explore the site before a big crowd arrived. As we stepped outside the fence, my thanaka woman and her friend caught my attention. They said that the $5 bill I had given them was too crinkly, and wanted to know if I had a nicer one. The bill that they waved in front of me was not the same one that I had given them, so it really wasn't my responsibility. But I sympathized with their plight; someone had given them this bill, which wasn't ripped or dirty, just a bit wrinkly. It would be easy enough, as a foreigner, to spend in larger establishments. But for local people making a simple living, it is difficult to exchange a bill that is not pristine and perfectly crisp. I didn't argue about the source of the bill, and instead apologized and exchanged it for a pristine bill, which made both of them quite happy. It was the least I could do. Next we drove for around 45 minutes to Amarapura, in the Sagaing District. Our destination was Mahagandayon Monastery, and we wanted to get there in time to see the daily ritual of monks receiving their final meal of the day at around 10 a.m. There are around 700 monks in this monastery, and they line up in two orderly queues with downcast eyes waiting their turns to fill their sole possession, a wooden bowl. Volunteers cook vast amounts of rice and vegetable gravy to feed them. After the monks eat, anyone in the community can partake in a free meal. On the drive to the monastery, Zaw taught us some things about Theravada Buddhism in Myanmar. Since Buddha renounced all of his posessions, he had no clothing. He would collect ccraps of cloth from the dead, sew them together and dye them with natural dye derived from tree bark to make robes. Even today, the monks' robes are not one solid piece of cloth; they are several smaller pieces sewn together. If they wear their robes with the right shoulder exposed, it indicates that it is their leisure time. Monks practice detachment in all regards, and that includes shaving their heads every two weeks so they don't get too attached to their hair. There are 227 monastic rules that monks have to follow. They study sacred texts written in Pali, and translate their messages into Burmese for laypeople. We arrived at the campus, and as we got out of the car, a woman and her adorable toddler approached us. The baby waved to us. The woman showed us a foerign coin, asked if it was American, and if we could exchange it to kyat for her. We couldn't tell where the coin was from, but it wasn't American. We apologized. She was a beggar, and it is always heart-wrenching to see destitute mothers with young children. But at least we knew that the monastery would provide them with food. We started our campus tour in a large hangar-like outdoor kitchen with a corrugated metal roof providing shelter from the elements. Volunteers were preparing the meal. They peeled mountains of vegetables and stirred enormous cauldrons over wood flame. Huge pots of rice cooked on the other side of the hangar. Soon the monks started to gather, forming two lines on the street in front of a dining hall. Their shoulders and arms were covered by their robes, with only their hands sticking out, holding their wooden alms bowls. Not all of these monks are lifers. The majority of Buddhist boys are sent to a monastery for several weeks at a time during various stages in their lives. Monks of all ages got into the queue. Many were quite young. All were dressed in crimson robes, except for a few in white robes. Most of these white-robed boys were quite young. Zaw explained that these boys were orphans, in need of sponsorship to continue their monastic studies. It was an impressive sight to see 700 monks preparing to eat, but unfortunately many of the tourists here behaved in a disrespectful manner, wearing clothing inappropriate for a monastery, getting in the way of the monks when they were queueing, etc. Tourists lined the streets and many stuck their camera lenmses directly into the faces of the monks. It was an odd spectacle that seemed a bit too much like a zoo. The monks are not allowed to interact, nor to make eye contact. So the ogling of the crowd seems particularly invasive. Several older monks had to act as bodyguards and make tourists move out of the way of the monks. Some people meant well, and had brought donations such as pens, notebooks, candies, pencils, etc. They would walk down the line of monks and place items on each alms bowl. But monks renounce possessions, so these items were not appropriate gifts. This ritual is about the monks receiving food, and these small gifts just got in the way. We just followed the rules, staying on the sidewalk, wearing proper attire, and keeping a respectful distance. As the dining room opened, the monks filed slowly in. By the time the last monks in line got their food, the first ones had finished, and were washing their bowls.  There were two more handicrafts that we still needed to witness while in Mandalay: silverwork and silk. We stopped at U Ba Mhin Daw Khin Lay & Sons Silver Ware. We walked through the showroom and stepped out back, where the artisans were working. We saw some beautiful large silver bowls in various stages of the process. The metalwork on them is intricate and three dimensional. It is done by hand with a hammer and dies of various sizes. The bowl is filled with a liquified tar-like substance that cools and solidifies. This provides resistance so that the piece is strong enough to withstand the shaping process. A man was using huge bellows to stoke a fire. As if it wasn't hot enough already! He heated up sheet metal, folded the edges, and fashioned it into a box. Another man used anvils of various diameters to shape cylindrical and conical pieces. He knew exactly which curve was necessary to fashion the shapes that he was constructing. We then wandered through the showroom. They had some beautiful pieces. The myriad of employees were eager to show us anything, but we weren't really in the market for anything silver. We enjoyed browsing and then headed back to the car.  Today would be the only day that we would not get a siesta at noontime. We were in Sagaing District, and it was not feasible to drive back to Mandalay to the hotel and then return to Amarapura in Sagaing for sunset. The fact that we wouldn't have a rest would be especially tough given that we had been up since 3 a.m. It was midday and quite hot and humid. We piled into the back of a pick-up truck and drove up a hill to Umin Thounzeh. The highlight of this site is a gracefully curved corridor containing 45 Buddha statues which have been carved out of the sandstone hillside. The Buddhas are painted and gilded, and the hillside has been covered with glass mosaic tiles. The Buddha statues, as well as the architecture of the corridor which had been built to protect them from the elements, brought to mind fractals. They repeated off into the distance and vanished around the curve. When I posted a photo on Facebook, Craig's brother Steve commented, "If you look at this between a pair of mirrors, the universe implodes." A group of Burmese teenagers wanted to get photos with us in the corridor, and we happily obliged. Little Buddha statues had been left as offerings in front of the large statues. Zaw explained that it is forbidden to throw away statues of the Buddha, so if people have one that they don't want one any more, they will sometimes leave it as an offering at a shrine such as this. We exited the corridor, and passed a dog who looked perfectly content as he lounged on a bench in the shade, using the armrest as a pillow. We walked up to an observation deck from which we had lovely views of the surrounding countryside. There was a pavilion which contained Buddha statues demonstrating various mudras (hand positions). We were all starting to feel overheated and sluggish. On the way down the stairs to get back to the parking lot, Zaw had us sit for a few minutes in the shade. He bought a longyi from a vendor, and then demonstrated all of the different ways that it can be worn. If we had assumed that it was only a sarong or skirt, we were mistaken. Zaw rolled it up and then fastened it to his head, where it resembled an elephant's trunk. Zaw explained that Burmese men entertain their children this way, and that Al could try it out with the grandkids. Then Zaw enlisted Patrick as a model, putting the longyi on Patrick's head as a farmer's turban. Then he fashioned it into a vest, followed by a backpack. A seller and her toddler daughter watched this whole spectacle with amusement. We all enjoyed the rest during this interlude, as we were all quite hot and sweaty. We walked down the remainder of the stairs, got into the vehicle, and drove the short distance to Ponnyashin Pagoda. This pagoda is known as the first pagoda in the Sagaing region to offer alms to the Buddha each day. In the merit-making system of Theravada Buddhism, it is thought to be more meritorious if you are the first person to give alms on a given day. However, people here have found that no matter how early they show up to place alms before the Buddha status at Ponnyashin Pagoda, there are already offerings there. They believe that celestial beings are the ones to beat them to it each day. We entered the pagoda and found ourselves standing in front of a giant seated Buddha wearing gilded robes. The walls and ceiling were decorated with mirrored glass mosaics.The pagoda is currently undergoing restoration, and the Buddha was surrounded by bamboo scaffolding. A sloping bamboo ladder led to the rafters. The scaffolding was like a work of art and architecture in and of itself. We went outside onto the patio. The view of the Irawaddy river and the gilded stupas dotting the surrounding countryside was beautiful, but the sun was blazing and the sky was hazy from the extreme humidity. The sun was reflecting off the patio tiles, and Craig and I sought out a bench in the shade. The stupa itself was covered in burlap as part of the restoration process. Workers were repairing carvings on the lower levels. We interacted with a few local families here, and the little kids were adorable. I bought a necklace from one man, and his little son came over and shook Craig's hand unprompted. What a cute little gentleman! There were also two toddler twin girls. We said hello in Burmese and asked the mother if we could take their picture. She posed the girls for us, but one was scared and turned her back to me just as I snapped the photo. We visited some additional shrines in the complex. The friendly custodians directed us to the best photos spots. We noticed a donation box shaped like a frog. Apparently the name of this hill translates to Frog Hill. There was another donation box in the shape of a rabbit. The rabbit represents the moon in Myanmar traditional beliefs. It was very hot at these two stops, and we were tired and sweaty. Craig was really feeling the lack of siesta, so when we went to the Shwe Sin Tai Silkwear workshop and boutique, he decided to rest in the air conditioned van. The rest of us entered the workshop. Outside hung photos of Aung San Suu Kyi wearing silk longyis produced here. In one of the photos, she is sitting with Barack Obama in the White House, just last month. Young women sat at looms with bobbins of colorful silk thread. They looked at incomprehensible patterns, and wove the delicate design. The design faces down, so they can't even see how it is progressing without holding a mirror under it. Their fingers passed the shuttles between the threads more quickly than my brain could process it. Many of these women had thanaka on their cheeks and earbuds in their ears. Some sang as they wove, and they smiled easily. An older woman spun raw silk into thread. And a man hand-cranked a machine which took black thread from dozens of bobbins and wound it around a large spool, which would be used to create the warp and the weft on a large loom. The machinery was all very wooden and mechanical, and it made for a very rhythmic entrancing percussive soundtrack.  I looked around the store. They had beautiful longyis, blouses, and scarves. I decided to pass on the clothing, but I bought a cross-body bag with Aung San Suu Kyi's photo on it, along with the caption "Our Leader." I had to have it, since it captured the zeitgeist of the trip so perfectly. I would carry this symbol of Myanmar's beloved Lady proudly. Toni was looking for a nice quality silk longyi and matching blouse, and she had a very frustrating shopping experience. She eventually ended up with two beautiful outfits. However, she needed the longyis to be sewn. We had already spent almost two hours at this stop, and needed to get to our next destination for sunset. Luckily, the shop owners said that they could sew the longyis and then delever them to Toni. We drove to U Bein Bridge to enjoy the sunset. The sunsets we had experienced thus far on the trip had been rather disappointing, but luckily that was not the case tonight. This bridge is a little over half a mile long and functions as a walkway across the seasonal Lake Taungthaman. Amarapura succeeded Inwa as the capital of the region. The bridge was constructed in 1849 from 986 teak poles brought from the former regional capital of Inwa. The bridge itself was beautiful in its simplicity, and its reflection in the mirror-like surface of the lake was jaw-dropping. One imagines that this might be the style of bridge that was being constructed in "Bridge on the River Kwai" before the British took charge. Craig was very tired at this point, but we encouraged him to rally his strength to walk on the bridge, even if we didn't get to walk all the way to the other side in our limited time. We ran across an extended family posing for a photo with the bridge in the background. We gave them the thumbs-up and snapped a photo. They smiled and waved. The bridge was crowded with people: tourists, locals, and vendors. In addition to pedestrians, there were occasionally bicycles and ice cream carts as well. There were no hand railings, or anything to prevent you from falling off the edge. With Craig's MS-related balance issues exacerbated by his fatigue, we had to make sure that he stayed safely away from the edge of the bridge. As the sun got low in the sky, its rays were blinding. People took gondola rides on the lake, and we saw young men fishing. Some were waist-deep in water with fishing poles, and others were along the shore with nets. People were very friendly to us. We saw a wedding party getting photographed on a small peninsula next to a gnarled picturesque tree with water buffalo in the background. We bought several fridge magnets from a vendor. Craig was wearing his longyi and his Burmese white shirt, and he was quite a hit. Many people complimented his outfit, and some asked for pictures with him/us. We would catch them trying to surreptitiously photograph us, so we would just smile and pose. A young woman chatted with us and I bought two necklaces from her. She posed for a photo with Craig. The sky turned pink and orange and purple as we turned around and walked back toward where the bus was parked. We hadn't made it to the other side of the lake, but I was just happy that Craig had been able to experience it despite his fatigue. The people were so warm and friendly, and the sunset was breathtaking. There was a spiral Buddhist monastery which appeared to be floating on the surface of the lake. The scene looked like something out of a fairytale. It was surreal. After several attempts to catch a sunset, today was our lucky day, and we couldn't think of a better location for it! We lingered on the bridge, talking to a Buddhist monk, not wanting this perfect moment to end. Our group came to get us and attendant Mg Han Tha Rai Tun took Craig's arm and helped him on the uneven path from the bridge to the bus. On the drive back to Mandalay, we passed some temporary villages in areas which are obviously seasonal floodplains for tributaries of the Irawaddy. The houses were on stilts, and were made of natural materials. It was getting dark, and we could see the glow of electric lights and sometimes even the flicker of a television. We wondered how high the water gets in the rainy season, and where these families go when their homes are flooded out. We were absolutely exhausted on the drive back. When we arrived in Mandalay, we stopped at the Green Elephant, for dinner. This is a restaurant owned by Daw Cherie, the woman with whom we had a lunch lecture on antiquities while in Yangon. The restaurant was outdoors and seemed to cater to large tour groups, with many long rectangular tables. It was a bit smoky when we got to our table. I think that they were burning something to keep the bugs away. Craig was so exhausted that he couldn't even eat. By this time we had been awake for 15 hours, as well as having been active at the hottest part of the day. The rest of us shared fish curry, chicken curry, aubergine salad, bean sprouts, soup, and coconut rice. Zaw also ordered some of his favorite crusted butterfish to share. We enjoyed our last evening with Zaw, who has been a fantastic guide. (Tomorrow we would leave for our river cruise.) Toni asked us all to reminisce on highlights thus far. It was difficult to narrow it down, since we have really enjoyed everything. Zaw couldn't believe it when nearly everyone said that their favorite meal had been the local breakfast at Sein Wah yesterday. When we got back to the hotel, car attendant Mg Han Tha Rai Tun spoke to us in English for the first time. He had always been shy to speak but showed his kindness through his attentive actions. He is starting out in the tourism business and we are sure that he will go far with his hospitality skills! Mahamuni Pagoda Shwenandaw Monastery Mahagandhayon Monastery Umin Thounzeh Ponnyashin Pagoda U-Bein Bridge |
 Waiting to enter the Mahamuni Pagoda  The devoted faithful who have come to watch the washing of Mahamuni Buddha  Monk spritzes Mahamuni Buddha's face with water  Attendant holds offerings up to the Mahamuni Buddha  Monk applies resin and gold leaf to Mahamuni Buddha's forehead  Trishaw ride through Mandalay  Shwenandaw Kyuang, the Golden Palace Monastery  Gilded interior of Shwenandaw Kyuang  Bus selfie  Volunteers prepare food for the monks at Mahagandayon Monastery  Monks queue for the last meal of the day at Mahagandayon Monastery  Monks queue for the last meal of the day at Mahagandayon Monastery  Monk gives a young boy a pencil and notebook  U Ba Mhin Daw Khin Lay & Sons Silver Ware  Toni, Craig, and Genean embrace local transportation  Umin Thounzeh  Umin Thounzeh  Umin Thounzeh  Ponnyashin Pagoda  Ponnyashin Pagoda  Weaver, Shwe Sin Tai Silkwear  U-Bein Bridge  U-Bein Bridge  Craig on U-Bein Bridge  U-Bein Bridge  Sunset at U-Bein Bridge  Sunset at U-Bein Bridge 
|
|
 |
|
 |
